Fortunately, the varnish doesn’t frost even when you accidentally put on too much varnish. I recommend thin coats as the drying time will increase for thicker applications. The finish is similar to the natural finish of most hobby paints like Warpaints or Citadel paints, and slightly more matt as more satin finish paints like Vallejo Game Colour or Privateer Press. Can be mixed with Quickshade Wash Mixing Medium and applied as a wash, or used for drybrushing or stippling.Īnti-Shine Matt Varnish: A very nice water-based matt varnish that can be applied with a brush or an airbrush. Unlike GW’s Ryza Rust, the consistency is similar to regular acrylic (War)paints with a matt finish. If you prefer a more “gooey” consistency, I recommend adding some Warpaints Mixing Medium but not mixing paint and medium properly for a similar.ĭry Rust: A rusty orange with a hint of brown. Compared to GW Blood for the Blood Good or Nurgle’s Rot, the consistency is more like regular paint (you can find out more about Citadel Technical paints here). I recommend applying these paints with a sponge or by flicking them from your brush for cool splatter effects.
The colours are quite vibrant, I especially like Disgusting Slime. Glistening Blood, Wet Mud, Disgusting Slime: These are essentially glossy paints, made to stand out after a coat of matt varnish for a wet effect. The durability can’t match a spray primer of course. The consistency of the primer is nice, it goes smoothly on models and doesn’t drip off like some thinner brush-on primers. Let’s take a closer look.īrush-On Primer: A medium grey paint that can be applied as a primer over bare metal and plastic. The Effect paints range features a mix of usefull additives and varnishes, as well some specially formulated paints to create special effects like blood, slime and weathering. Light Tone: Light Tone is a sepia brown, similar to GW Seraphim Sepia. Compared to other Quickshade Inks, it didn’t settle quite as nicely in the recesses. It’s actually pretty close to GW Reikland Fleshshade. It’s much more reddish than it appears on the colour swatch. Mid Brown: This was quite a surprise, as it’s an even more reddish brown wash than Flesh Wash. Compared to Reikland Fleshshade, it’s a nuance less reddish and it settles better in the recesses. Note: Dark Tone, Strong Tone and Soft Tone are supposed to match The Army Painter’s Quickshade “dip” range, though I can’ comment on that as I don’t have their dips for comparison.įlesh Wash: A reddish brown wash for shading caucasian flesh, also useful for shading gold and copper. Old Soft Tone Ink seems now to be Light Tone Ink. It’s actually quite similar to GW Agrax Earthshade. Soft Tone – Soft Tone Ink used to be quite similar to GW’s old Gryphonne Sepia or new Seraphim Sepia Shade, but The Army Painter seems to have changed it into a more mid-brown wash, as seen as on the colour swatch. Please note that The Army Painter seems to have changed Soft Tone Ink since our review: Dark Tone Ink is a perfect match for GW’s old Badab Black or Nuln Oil, while Strong Tone is a darker, more blackish brown compared to GW Agrax Earthshade (but a very close match for GW’s old Devlan Mud). For reference, Green Tone Ink is slightly more muted than GW Biel-Tan Green, Purple Tone is a very close match to GW Druchii Violet, Blue Tone is slightly less blackish and than GW Drakenhof Nightshade.ĭark Tone, Strong Tone: Also reviewed earlier, learn more about them here. Green Tone, Purple Tone, Blue Tone: We already reviewed these inks a while a go, check out the review here. I like it quite much, I think it’s great for shading drab or muted greens when you don’t want that yellowish hue of Althonian Camoshade. Compared to GW Althonian Camoshade, it’s less yellowish. Military Shader: This is a drab green wash.
The new additions are Flesh Wash, Mid Brown, Light Tone and Military Shader. I was pleased to hear that The Army Painter expanded their Quickshade Inks with four new hues, bringing the range to 11 washes in total.